On a late afternoon in mid-August, we left Bolgheri and drove towards Populonia. About half an hour later, the road led us to the headland that closes the Gulf of Baratti to the north, where one of the most fascinating places on the Etruscan Coast rises. Populonia is truly unique in the Mediterranean: the only Etruscan city built directly by the sea, suspended between archaeology, the Middle Ages and breathtaking views.
Founded as a centre for iron processing thanks to the mines of Elba Island, Populonia still preserves necropolises and traces of a flourishing civilisation. The medieval borgo further enriches the history of this extraordinary place, overlooking the crystal-clear Gulf of Baratti, an ideal destination for a break between culture, nature and sea.
We left the car in the parking area outside the borgo and walked a short distance to the historic centre. Entering through a gate in the walls, we immediately found ourselves in a compact village of stone alleys and small shops. On the left, the silhouette of the Castle with its Tower stood out, already visible from outside the walls, guardian of centuries of history and sentinel of the sea stretching out to the horizon.
1. The hamlet and the Castle
As soon as we crossed the gate, our attention was caught by the imposing Castle of Populonia. The complex combines the Tower, built by Pisa in the 12th century, and the Rocca, added by the Appiani in the 15th century. It was built as a defensive stronghold against pirate raids and is a fine example of the medieval practice of “incastellamento”, when new fortified villages were founded to repopulate and control the territory.
Walking through the orderly streets, we could sense this medieval layout. The very stones of the walls tell of an even older past: many blocks were reused from Roman temples and Etruscan buildings, creating a dialogue of materials and eras.
2. The Tower and the view
A climb to the Tower of Populonia (€3 ticket, including the museum) is not to be missed. The ascent is steep, but the reward at the top is unforgettable: an immense horizon opening before our eyes. Towards the sea stood the islands of the Tuscan Archipelago, Elba, Capraia, Gorgona, and on clear days even Corsica. To the north we could see Castiglioncello, to the south Punta Ala. Behind us, the Metalliferous Hills outlined the hinterland, with the ancient Via Aurelia tracing the history of the land.
This strategic position was no coincidence: for centuries the Tower was part of a defensive network connected to other towers along the coast. In the 16th century, the Medici established the “Via dei Cavalleggeri”, a patrol route along the Tuscan shoreline, passing just beneath Populonia.
3. The Church of Santa Croce
In the main square, next to the castle, stands the Church of Santa Croce, small and intimate, preserving an atmosphere of seclusion. Upon entering, we were struck by the remains of medieval frescoes and, above all, by the altar, fashioned from an ancient Roman sarcophagus dating back to the 3rd century AD: a detail that reveals how Populonia is truly a place of stratifications, where the sacred and the ancient are continuously intertwined.
4. The Etruscan Museum of Populonia – Gasparri Collection
Inside the borgo, in the former oil mill of the castle, lies the Etruscan Museum of Populonia, the oldest museum institution in the Val di Cornia. Established in 1943 thanks to Giulia and Tommaso Gasparri, it houses a precious collection of artifacts from the Etruscan necropolises of Baratti and other archaeological discoveries in the area.
Amphorae, cinerary urns, funerary goods and everyday objects illustrate the importance of Populonia as a metallurgical and commercial hub, a crossroads for the iron trade from Elba. Walking through its rooms means coming into direct contact with the civilization that made this stretch of coast renowned.
5. The Archaeological Park of Baratti and Populonia
Outside the borgo, along the road climbing up from Baratti, stretches the Archaeological Park of Baratti and Populonia, which preserves the most impressive remains of the ancient Etruscan and Roman city.
In the lower part of the park lie the Necropolises of San Cerbone, with their large circular tumuli and edicula tombs, and the evocative Necropolis of the Caves, with chamber tombs carved into the rock. Climbing higher, on the Acropolis, one can admire the remains of temples, a domus, loggias and baths, bearing witness to the transformation of Populonia into a Roman center.
The park offers various itineraries, from easy walks to more challenging hikes, through woods, sea views and archaeological remains. Each path blends nature and culture, offering a complete and engaging experience.
Usuful information
How to get there
Populonia can be reached in about 30 minutes from Bolgheri and 15 minutes from Piombino. It is advisable to arrive by car: the borgo is not accessible to vehicles, but there is an external parking area from which a short walk leads to the historic center.
Parking
The main parking lot is located right before the walls (Populonia Parking). From here, you enter the borgo on foot.
Opening hours (2025)
- Tower of Populonia and Etruscan Museum of Populonia – Gasparri Collection (we recommend the climb at sunset):
January 1–7: daily, 10:00–17:00
January 8 – April 13: Friday to Sunday, 10:00–17:00 (from March 26 until 19:00)
April 18 – November 2: daily, 10:00–19:00 (from June 17 to September 15 until 20:00)
November 3 – December 14: Friday to Sunday, 10:00–17:00
December 16–31: daily, 10:00–17:00
Closed on December 25
Entrance ticket: €3 full price - Archaeological Park of Baratti and Populonia
For updated opening hours and prices: parchivaldicornia.it
