Capraia is an island that surprises those in search of authenticity and unspoiled landscapes. The third largest among the islands of the Tuscan Archipelago and the only one of volcanic origin, it has a wild and untouched charm. Only 3% of the territory is inhabited: the rest is a mix of panoramic trails crossing the island, Mediterranean scrub – from strawberry trees and tree heather to myrtle, lavender, and rosemary – dramatic volcanic cliffs plunging into the sea, and marine ecosystems rich in biodiversity. Its rugged profile, shaped by millennia of geological activity, rises about 36 nautical miles from Livorno, connected by a ferry of just under three hours, and 31 miles from San Vincenzo, from where the crossing takes about two and a half hours.
For those who prefer to arrive by private boat, the navigation time varies depending on speed: a sailing boat at 8 knots takes about 4 hours from San Vincenzo and 5 hours from Livorno, while a motorboat at 20 knots can reduce the journey to about 1.5 hours from San Vincenzo and 2 hours from Livorno.
Its isolated position and its long history of closure, it was home to an agricultural penal colony for over a century, from 1873 to 1986, have left their mark. Even today, the landscape is characterized by abandoned terraces, dirt paths, and rural ruins, silent witnesses of a recent past made of hard work and isolation.
But the history of the island goes back much further: already known by the Greeks and Romans (who called it Aegylon), Capraia later became a refuge for hermits, a base for monks, and a defensive outpost first for Pisa and later for Genoa. In 1540, the Republic of Genoa turned it into a strategic stronghold in the Tyrrhenian Sea, building towers and fortifications to defend it from Saracen pirate raids.
Today, Capraia, with a population of just over 350 inhabitants, is considered the wildest island of the Tuscan Archipelago. For this reason, it is an ideal destination for those who love to travel slowly, whether on foot or by sea. A small harbor, a charming village, a few essential services, and plenty of unspoiled nature: the perfect place for those seeking silence, authenticity, and a direct connection with an island that has remained untouched, to be discovered along its panoramic trails.
An itinerary through history, nature, and sea
The heart of Capraia is discovered on foot, and not just as a figure of speech. The entire island is crossed by well-maintained trails stretching from north to south, linking the village to its most remote natural areas, passing through panoramic viewpoints, hidden coves accessible only on foot, and abandoned rural structures. It is a true paradise for hikers, birdwatchers, and walkers of all levels.
Our walking itinerary begins in the upper part of the village, where the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, the island’s main religious building, stands. Dating back to the 18th century, it has a simple single-nave layout and preserves several valuable historical furnishings. From here, you can head inland to visit the rock-hewn palmenti, ancient basins carved into the stone once used for grape pressing. Today, they remain surrounded by dense Mediterranean vegetation, stone walls, and traces of Capraia’s pre-penal agricultural economy.
Descending towards the port, you reach the Port Tower, built in the 16th century by the Genoese as a defensive outpost. Today it houses the municipal library, a small but lively cultural hub. Behind the tower, a stone staircase leads down to Cala San Francesco, a volcanic bay surrounded by dark rocks and crystal-clear waters, the perfect spot for a break or, in summer, a refreshing swim.
Climbing up, you reach the most scenic point of the island: Forte San Giorgio. Built in 1540, after a devastating assault by the corsair Dragut, it was completed within just a few years to defend the island from further attacks. When Dragut returned in 1545, Capraia was already fortified and successfully repelled the assault. Over the centuries, the fortress has been transformed several times: from a military outpost to a barracks, later a guest facility, and even a nightclub. Today it has been restored and houses private residences, but its exterior is accessible and offers one of the island’s most spectacular views over the harbor and the open sea.
Continuing the descent, you reach Piazza Milano, the beating heart of the village and home to the Church of San Nicola. Built in the 18th century, it is closely linked to the presence of the penal colony: it was originally constructed to serve both the inmates and the staff of the institution. Today, the church is closed, but it remains one of the symbols of Capraia’s historical transformation throughout the 20th century.
Finally, it’s worth walking to the Bellavista viewpoint, a natural terrace that can be reached with a short stroll from the village center. Its name says it all: from here, you can enjoy a direct view of the harbor, the island, and the stretch of sea facing the Tuscan coast. It’s an excellent spot to pause at the end of the day, take photos, or simply enjoy the silence.
If you choose to explore Capraia by sea, you can’t miss Cala Rossa, one of the island’s most spectacular bays. Located on the southeastern coast, it can only be reached by boat, either on a daily excursion or with a private vessel. Its name comes from the striking red volcanic rocks surrounding it, which contrast beautifully with the deep blue sea and the white cliffs nearby. The entire area is part of the UNESCO MaB Reserve of the Tuscan Islands and represents a perfect example of Capraia’s volcanic origins.
Overlooking Cala Rossa stands the Torre dello Zenòbito, a watchtower built in 1545 from lava stone, perched on a scenic promontory that guards the southern tip of the island. Although it is not open to visitors, it remains one of the most fascinating testimonies of the Genoese era.
To reach it by land, one of the most scenic hiking routes is the trail from Monte Arpagna to Punta dello Zenòbito, which starts from the village and follows well-marked paths, often organized as loops that include the tower itself. Whether approached by sea or land, this area is one of the wildest and most photogenic spots on Capraia.
The marine landscape of Capraia
Capraia is not only an island to be explored on foot: it is also a marine paradise. Its rugged coastline hides secluded coves and sea caves that can only be reached by boat. The seabed is rich in biodiversity, with meadows of Posidonia seagrass, groupers, dentex, and amberjacks, attracting enthusiasts of snorkeling and diving. Among its many natural wonders, the presence of the Mediterranean monk seal is particularly noteworthy. Although rare, it is still documented here, finding shelter in the island’s most isolated caves. With fewer than 700 individuals estimated throughout the Mediterranean, spotting one is an extraordinary event that highlights the environmental value of this wild and protected island.
Useful information
Ferry
Capraia can also be reached from the Port of San Vincenzo thanks to the daily excursions organized by Aquavision.
The service operates: every Tuesday in August and every Thursday and Sunday from June to September.
The crossing takes about 2 hours and includes a 7-hour stop on the island, perfect for a full visit between sea, village, and hiking trails.
Visit: www.aquavision.it
Capraia is also reachable daily from the Porto Mediceo in Livorno with the ferries of the Toremar company. The crossing takes about 2.5 hours, with regular departures throughout the year.
Visit: www.toremar.it
Private boat
For those seeking a more exclusive experience or who already own a boat, Capraia can be reached independently by sea. The island has a well-equipped marina with berths for private boats, fuel service, and facilities for boaters, mainly active from April to October.
During summer, it is advisable to book your berth in advance, especially on weekends. Navigation is regulated in the protected areas: the entire coastline of the island is part of the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, so some coves and seabeds are subject to restrictions.
Sailing times vary depending on speed: a sailing boat at 8 knots takes about 4 hours from San Vincenzo and 5 hours from Livorno, while a motorboat at 20 knots reduces the trip to about 1.5 hours from San Vincenzo and 2 hours from Livorno.
For more information, you can contact the Capraia Harbor Master’s Office or visit the official park website: www.islepark.it
