We arrived shortly after half past ten, welcomed by the rarefied silence of a warm Tuscan morning. The transfer took us along a road that seemed to reveal itself curve after curve: native woods, neat vineyards, sloping olive groves and, in the distance, the sea.
The project and its story
Upon arrival, we are welcomed with a guided tour. We immediately enter the winery, carved deep into the ground where the former Cariola quarry once stood, decommissioned in the 1980s: an abandoned scar in the landscape, on rough and unproductive land. Today, thanks to the entrepreneurial vision of engineer Alejandro Bulgheroni and his family, it has been transformed into one of the most remarkable examples of sustainable regeneration in Italy, a project that combines environmental, cultural and architectural renewal.
The structure was built according to the principles of sustainable architecture, based on a project by Studio Tori in Florence, which has already designed iconic wineries such as Argentiera, Castello di Bolgheri, and Villa Tignanello in the heart of Chianti Classico for the Antinori family. The total investment? €23 million.
Alejandro Bulgheroni, an Argentinian entrepreneur and visionary active in the energy and agriculture sectors, has Italian roots. As he recalled during his inauguration speech, delivered in Italian: “My great-grandfather, Giovanni Alessandro Bulgheroni, emigrated from Como to Argentina in 1873.” In South America, he built his business empire, which today includes a portfolio of some of the most prestigious wineries in the world.
Tenuta Meraviglia is an integrated project that combines terroir, technology, environmental awareness, and international vision. Over 7,000 square meters were recovered and 20,000 cubic meters of rock were reused on-site. The construction took more than 1,125 consecutive days of work, resulting in a three-level structure that does not dominate the landscape but is embedded into the quarry, in dialogue with the native oak and cork forests surrounding it, overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Tuscan archipelago.
The winery unfolds across three descending levels, with a panoramic roof. It is an innovative project that embeds the structure into the quarry, leaving the rock face exposed both outside and inside, creating a striking scenic effect in the large fermentation hall, topped by a fully glazed tasting room.
As emphasized during the inauguration, what sets a good project apart from an extraordinary one are three key elements: an obstacle to overcome (the disused quarry), a vision (that of the Bulgheroni family), and a result that inspires wonder, emotion, and admiration.
Sustainability as a foundation
Walking along the first level, we are immediately introduced to the ethical core of the project. Every choice, from the use of low-impact Italian materials in the construction to the recovery of rainwater for irrigation, reflects a concrete and consistent vision of sustainability. The collected water is used for the gardens, while erosion control has been achieved through engineering solutions that are invisible but highly effective. The equipment is also designed to ensure minimal water and energy consumption.
No barriques. The company philosophy is clear: not to cover the varietal identity of the wine, but to enhance it. Hence the use of large oak barrels and raw concrete tanks, a material that, thanks to its porosity and insulating capacity, allows for controlled micro-oxygenation and stable temperatures. A technical choice, yes, but also a poetic one: the wine breathes better, and the yeasts work more gently.
Regenerative agriculture and soil respect
The approach in the vineyard is radically sustainable and regenerative. After harvest, the soil is worked only with ripper tools that do not compact it. Fifty percent of the surface is never deeply ploughed, encouraging the natural deepening of the root system. This respect for the soil’s natural structure is reflected in a viticulture that preserves biodiversity and soil vitality.
The terroir
It is the geology, however, that captures our attention. In the upper part of the estate, 34 hectares are planted with Cabernet Franc, a variety that here seems to have found its deepest expression. The soils? San Vincenzo volcanics, rocks formed from lava flows dating back around 5 million years. “You’ll only find them here,” they tell us. And indeed, the wine born from these soils has a tension, verticality, and mineral strength that are hard to forget.
Among these rocks, Vigna Pianali stands out as a particularly gifted cru: a parcel where the roots sink into volcanic rock, abundant both deep underground and clearly visible among the rows. “Something special happens there every year,” they tell us.
Further downhill, towards Tenuta Le Colonne, the “sister” estate of Tenuta Meraviglia, the landscape changes. The soils become sandy, composed of the Red Sands of the Val di Gori, formed around 2 million years ago from continental, non-marine sediments. Here, blends are produced: more immediate and approachable wines.
After the tour, we head up to the terrace overlooking the sea. A light, well-prepared buffet welcomes us. The air is mild, and we sip on flavored water. The story continues, and they explain how the geological layers alternate with coherence: lava flows, sediments leveled by ancient floods, outcropping rock, and red sand. A stratification that finds its expression in the wine, a geological echo captured in every bottle.
The vision
We move to the adjacent terrace, where the institutional part of the day begins. The first to speak is journalist Filippo Bartolotta, followed by Sandra Scarpellini, the mayor of Castagneto Carducci, and finally the Bulgheroni family. Alejandro Jr. shares his father’s vision: an Argentinian engineer with Italian roots and a declared passion for geology. It is precisely from this passion that the desire was born to build a winery that would not overpower nature, but rather continue its flow.
Tenuta Meraviglia is the 14th wine estate of the Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards group, which spans Argentina, Uruguay, France, California, Australia, and Italy. With more than 1,100 hectares in total, the family has chosen Bolgheri, Chianti Classico, and Montalcino as the core of its investment in Italy. And that is no coincidence. As they clearly state:
“This is the best terroir in the area. We believe it was the right place to build a winery.”
The day ends in the wine cellar, where a lunch is served in a room carved into the rock, surrounded by barrels and silence. The light is soft, and the stone walls tell a story millions of years old.
In September 2025, Tenuta Meraviglia will open its doors to guests. The two rooms on the upper floor, the terrace overlooking the sea, and the library suspended above the barrel room will host tastings, gatherings, and high-quality wine tourism experiences.
PRACTICAL INFORMATIONS
Tenuta Meraviglia
Via Vecchia Aurelia, 418, 57022 Donoratico (LI)
▶ The winery will open to the public for visits starting in September 2025